服裝系統(tǒng)設(shè)計(jì)方法論研究

暫缺《服裝系統(tǒng)設(shè)計(jì)方法論研究》簡(jiǎn)介

　　作為山東工藝美術(shù)學(xué)院服裝設(shè)計(jì)專業(yè)的首屆畢業(yè)生，呂學(xué)海在入學(xué)之前曾在企業(yè)做過(guò)多年的服裝生產(chǎn)與技術(shù)管理工作，有著豐富的實(shí)踐經(jīng)驗(yàn)。1987 年畢業(yè)留校任教以來(lái)，長(zhǎng)期致力于設(shè)計(jì)藝術(shù)與工藝技術(shù)方面的教學(xué)研究，編纂了多部教材，獲得了多項(xiàng)省級(jí)優(yōu)秀教學(xué)成果及科研成果獎(jiǎng)。他樂(lè)于求知，勤于探索，治學(xué)耕耘，勤學(xué)不輟，在近天命之年考取了蘇州大學(xué)博士研究生，面壁四載，完成了博士論文并取得學(xué)位。本書(shū)也是在其博士論文基礎(chǔ)上經(jīng)過(guò)補(bǔ)充和完善形成的又一成果。天道酬勤，呂學(xué)海的該項(xiàng)研究經(jīng)過(guò)層層篩選于2009 年獲得國(guó)家社科基金藝術(shù)學(xué)項(xiàng)目立項(xiàng)。應(yīng)該說(shuō)，這一研究改變了將“設(shè)計(jì)”與“工程”分離的研究方式，為服裝設(shè)計(jì)理論建設(shè)和方法改良做了有益的嘗試；提出了以“藝術(shù)賦形”為主導(dǎo)的技術(shù)思想，就實(shí)現(xiàn)設(shè)計(jì)藝術(shù)與科學(xué)技術(shù)的有機(jī)結(jié)合提出了一種比較新的研究思路；同時(shí)，基于圖形學(xué)原理的服裝技術(shù)試驗(yàn)，從一個(gè)新的角度對(duì)服裝結(jié)構(gòu)原理與計(jì)算方法進(jìn)行了求證，強(qiáng)化了技術(shù)原理與設(shè)計(jì)造型之間的內(nèi)在聯(lián)系；通過(guò)對(duì)設(shè)計(jì)過(guò)程要素的整合，建立了服裝系統(tǒng)設(shè)計(jì)過(guò)程模型，為設(shè)計(jì)者提供了一種普遍聯(lián)系的思維引導(dǎo)工具?！久襟w評(píng)論】評(píng)論【目錄】目錄 第1章緒論 ·······001 1.1 研究背景及意義 ··································004 1.1.1 從“量體裁衣”到系統(tǒng)設(shè)計(jì) ····················005 1.1.2 服裝系統(tǒng)設(shè)計(jì)研究的理論價(jià)值 ·················007 1.1.3 構(gòu)建系統(tǒng)設(shè)計(jì)方法的實(shí)踐意義 ·················010 1.2 研究?jī)?nèi)容及理論基礎(chǔ) ····························012 1.2.1 一般系統(tǒng)論思想 ···································013 1.2.2 設(shè)計(jì)過(guò)程理論 ····016 1.2.3 傳統(tǒng)造物觀念 ····019 1.3 研究思路與基本觀點(diǎn) ····························023 1.3.1 設(shè)計(jì)總體上是一個(gè)邏輯的過(guò)程 ·················023 1.3.2 整體觀念是設(shè)計(jì)過(guò)程的核心 ····················026 1.3.3 科學(xué)化是設(shè)計(jì)方法發(fā)展的趨勢(shì) ·················027 1.4 國(guó)內(nèi)外研究現(xiàn)狀分析 ····························030 1.4.1 國(guó)外研究現(xiàn)狀 ····030 1.4.2 國(guó)內(nèi)研究現(xiàn)狀 ····034 1.4.3 存在問(wèn)題分析 ····036 1.5 研究方法及論文組織 ····························036 1.5.1 研究方法 ··········036 1.5.2 繼承與創(chuàng)新 ·······038 1.5.3 內(nèi)容組織 ··········039第2 章服裝設(shè)計(jì)的一般過(guò)程及知識(shí)框架······················· 0432.1 設(shè)計(jì)過(guò)程的概念辨析 ···························· 044 2.1.1 設(shè)計(jì)與過(guò)程 ·······045 2.1.2 過(guò)程與階段 ·······046 2.1.3 階段與程序 ·······048 2.2 服裝系統(tǒng)設(shè)計(jì)的構(gòu)成要素 ······················ 049 2.2.1 設(shè)計(jì)對(duì)象與產(chǎn)品定義 ·····························050 2.2.2 設(shè)計(jì)問(wèn)題與設(shè)計(jì)內(nèi)容 ·····························052 2.2.3 設(shè)計(jì)原則與設(shè)計(jì)任務(wù) ·····························054 2.2.4 設(shè)計(jì)知識(shí)與設(shè)計(jì)流程 ·····························058 2.2.5 設(shè)計(jì)創(chuàng)意與技術(shù)實(shí)現(xiàn) ·····························061 2.2.6 設(shè)計(jì)評(píng)價(jià)與方案優(yōu)化 ·····························064 2.3 服裝系統(tǒng)設(shè)計(jì)的相關(guān)研究 ······················ 067 2.3.1 服裝功能與屬性 ···································068 2.3.2 服裝形態(tài)與元素 ···································071 2.3.3 服裝結(jié)構(gòu)與工藝 ···································074 2.3.4 服裝色彩與材料 ···································077 2.3.5 設(shè)計(jì)藝術(shù)與科學(xué)技術(shù) ·····························083 2.3.6 設(shè)計(jì)觀與方法論 ···································085 2.4 服裝系統(tǒng)設(shè)計(jì)的運(yùn)行模式 ······················ 089 2.4.1 串行模式 ··········091 2.4.2 并行模式 ··········093 2.4.3 循環(huán)模式 ··········094 2.4.4 系統(tǒng)模式 ··········095 2.5 服裝系統(tǒng)設(shè)計(jì)的一般過(guò)程 ······················ 096 2.5.1 任務(wù)分析與目標(biāo)確認(rèn) ·····························0972.5.2 設(shè)計(jì)調(diào)研與資料收集 ·····························0992.5.3 需求分析與產(chǎn)品定位 ·····························1012.5.4 設(shè)計(jì)創(chuàng)意與視覺(jué)表達(dá) ·····························1042.5.5 設(shè)計(jì)評(píng)價(jià)與方案優(yōu)化 ·····························1062.5.6 結(jié)構(gòu)設(shè)計(jì)與紙樣制作 ·····························1072.5.7 工藝設(shè)計(jì)與樣衣試制 ·····························1092.5.8 綜合評(píng)價(jià)與生產(chǎn)準(zhǔn)備 ····························· 1102.5.9 批量生產(chǎn)與市場(chǎng)反饋 ····························· 111 小結(jié)························· 111第3 章服裝創(chuàng)意的理論基礎(chǔ)與生成機(jī)制························ 1153.1 創(chuàng)意理論的產(chǎn)生與發(fā)展 ························· 1173.1.1 創(chuàng)意概念的內(nèi)涵 ··································· 1173.1.2 創(chuàng)意方法的研究 ··································· 1193.1.3 服裝創(chuàng)意的本質(zhì) ···································1213.2 服裝創(chuàng)意的相關(guān)理論 ···························· 1223.2.1 “魔島”與“萬(wàn)花筒”理論 ····················123 3.2.2 “拼圖”與“組合”理論 ·······················1253.2.3 “遷移”與“變通”理論 ······················1263.2.4 等價(jià)轉(zhuǎn)換理論 ····1273.3 服裝創(chuàng)意的基本方法 ··························· 1303.3.1 集思廣益的智力激勵(lì)法 ··························1303.3.2 科學(xué)理性的特征列舉法 ·························1323.3.3 變陌生為熟悉的綜攝法 ··························1343.3.4 由設(shè)問(wèn)引發(fā)創(chuàng)意的核對(duì)單法 ····················137 3.3.5 基于系統(tǒng)觀的形態(tài)分析法 ·······················1383.3.6 師法自然的生物模擬法 ··························1403.3.7 感性工學(xué)之語(yǔ)義微分法 ·························1413.4 服裝創(chuàng)意的思維特征 ···························· 1443.4.1 感性與理性的結(jié)合 ································1453.4.2 發(fā)散與收斂的循環(huán) ································1473.4.3 直覺(jué)與靈感的捕捉 ································1503.4.4 聯(lián)想與想象的延伸 ································1523.4.5 綜合與系統(tǒng)的梳理 ································1563.5 服裝創(chuàng)意的生成機(jī)制 ···························· 1573.5.1 服裝創(chuàng)意的素材 ···································1583.5.2 服裝創(chuàng)意的條件 ···································1603.5.3 服裝創(chuàng)意的原理 ···································1623.5.4 服裝創(chuàng)意的引導(dǎo) ···································1693.6 服裝創(chuàng)意的一般過(guò)程 ···························· 1733.6.1 提出問(wèn)題階段 ····1743.6.2 創(chuàng)意醞釀階段 ····1753.6.3 創(chuàng)意孵化階段 ····1763.6.4 創(chuàng)意完成階段 ····1773.6.5 創(chuàng)意完善階段 ····1793.6.6 創(chuàng)意表達(dá)階段 ····180 小結(jié)·························181第4 章服裝設(shè)計(jì)的物化觀念與技術(shù)思想························· 1854.1 設(shè)計(jì)物化觀決定技術(shù)方法論 ···················1874.1.1 物化概念及其技術(shù)思想 ··························1874.1.2 功能與形態(tài)的辯證統(tǒng)一 ··························1904.1.3 藝術(shù)與技術(shù)的協(xié)同發(fā)展 ··························1934.2 服裝技術(shù)研究的科學(xué)觀 ························· 1974.2.1 服裝形態(tài)的構(gòu)成原理 ·····························1974.2.2 服裝結(jié)構(gòu)的表現(xiàn)形式 ·····························2044.2.3 服裝技術(shù)的系統(tǒng)建構(gòu) ····························2064.3 服裝技術(shù)研究的藝術(shù)觀 ························· 2094.3.1 服裝形態(tài)的審美特征 ·····························2104.3.2 服裝形態(tài)的符號(hào)意義 ·····························2124.3.3 服裝物化中的技術(shù)美 ·····························2164.4 服裝技術(shù)研究的方法論 ························· 2184.4.1 面向?qū)嵺`的技術(shù)原則 ·····························2194.4.2 辯證統(tǒng)一的造物觀念 ·····························2214.4.3 藝術(shù)賦形的技術(shù)觀點(diǎn) ·····························2244.4.4 科學(xué)系統(tǒng)的操作程序 ·····························2264.5 服裝物化的一般過(guò)程 ···························· 2274.5.1 形態(tài)分析 ··········2294.5.2 功能分析 ··········2294.5.3 材料分析 ··········2304.5.4 結(jié)構(gòu)分析 ··········2314.5.5 紙樣設(shè)計(jì) ··········2314.5.6 工藝設(shè)計(jì) ··········2324.5.7 樣衣試制 ··········2334.5.8 綜合評(píng)價(jià) ··········2334.5.9 系列紙樣 ··········2344.5.10 生產(chǎn)應(yīng)用 ·········234 小結(jié)·························235第5 章服裝形態(tài)的構(gòu)成原理及相關(guān)實(shí)驗(yàn)··············· 2395.1 實(shí)驗(yàn)概述 ········· 2405.1.1 實(shí)驗(yàn)?zāi)康募耙饬x ···································2415.1.2 實(shí)驗(yàn)內(nèi)容與方法 ···································2425.1.3 實(shí)驗(yàn)手段及步驟 ···································2425.2 人體圖像采集與測(cè)量 ···························· 2445.2.1 人體圖像采集 ····2445.2.2 人體圖形歸納 ····2455.2.3 人體圖形測(cè)量 ····2475.2.4 測(cè)量數(shù)據(jù)分析 ····2475.3 領(lǐng)型結(jié)構(gòu)原理與計(jì)算 ···························· 2485.3.1 領(lǐng)圈的構(gòu)成原理與計(jì)算 ··························2485.3.2 領(lǐng)子的構(gòu)成原理與變化規(guī)律 ····················251 5.3.3 關(guān)于領(lǐng)子松量的計(jì)算 ·····························2555.3.4 領(lǐng)型結(jié)構(gòu)原理在制圖中的應(yīng)用 ·················2605.4 袖型結(jié)構(gòu)原理與計(jì)算 ···························· 2635.4.1 袖型結(jié)構(gòu)原理解析 ································2635.4.2 袖山結(jié)構(gòu)原理與計(jì)算 ·····························2645.4.3 袖窿結(jié)構(gòu)原理與計(jì)算 ·····························2655.4.4 肩線的傾斜量與計(jì)算 ·····························2675.5 衣身結(jié)構(gòu)原理與計(jì)算 ···························· 2695.5.1 人體截面形態(tài)分析 ································2705.5.2 人體數(shù)學(xué)模型的構(gòu)建與測(cè)量 ····················272 5.5.3 服裝應(yīng)用制圖的生成與計(jì)算 ····················275小結(jié)·························280第6 章服裝系統(tǒng)設(shè)計(jì)方法的構(gòu)建及應(yīng)用················· 2836.1 服裝系統(tǒng)設(shè)計(jì)過(guò)程整合 ························· 2846.1.1 系統(tǒng)設(shè)計(jì)過(guò)程模型的構(gòu)架 ·······················2856.1.2 系統(tǒng)設(shè)計(jì)過(guò)程的運(yùn)行模式 ·······················2866.1.3 系統(tǒng)設(shè)計(jì)過(guò)程模型的整合 ·······················2876.1.4 系統(tǒng)設(shè)計(jì)過(guò)程模型的應(yīng)用 ·······················2896.2 服裝系統(tǒng)設(shè)計(jì)案例分析 ························· 2906.2.1 設(shè)計(jì)準(zhǔn)備階段 ····2906.2.2 設(shè)計(jì)創(chuàng)意階段 ····3016.2.3 設(shè)計(jì)物化階段 ····3146.2.4 設(shè)計(jì)完成階段 ····320 小結(jié)·························321第7 章結(jié)論······· 3237.1 系統(tǒng)化是設(shè)計(jì)發(fā)展的客觀要求 ················ 3257.2 程序化是設(shè)計(jì)過(guò)程的有效機(jī)制 ················ 3267.3 藝術(shù)化是服裝技術(shù)的最高境界 ················ 3277.4 科學(xué)化是設(shè)計(jì)方法的必然趨勢(shì) ················ 327參考文獻(xiàn)················ 329 附錄A ··················· 336 附錄B ··················· 346 附錄C ··················· 353 附錄D ··················· 358 附錄E ··················· 359 附錄F ··················· 361 后記······················ 367